Thailand Chronicles

Chronicle Five — the Ride Begins

Hua Hin faded into the distance as the bike glided the backroads south. Calimoto worked excellently proving iPhone navigation is all that’s necessary. Sayonara, Garmin. I motored as if my ass were on fire. For about an hour. Then Sam Roi Yot appeared.

I had been through this little town on the earlier ride to Prachuap Kiri Khun. It wasn’t the town that attracted me. It was the national park of the same name. There was a cave with a temple inside that required a hike to visit and that was my goal.

I had booked a room online, and after checking in I cruised the town. Several bars and restaurants were open and I stopped in one and had dinner. It turned into an excellent evening as it was a local hangout full of colorful international “locals” and Thais. I felt right at home.

The hike to Phraya Nakhon Cave isn’t strenuous, but it’s a rough, rocky path. Thais were doing it in flip-flops but I wore a good pair of hiking boots and I would recommend at least a heel-strapped sandal. The building inside the cave is named Phra Thinang Khuha Kharuhat. I called it a temple earlier, but it’s actually a royal pavilion.

Despite my ignorance of what the attraction is (and most other things about Thailand), it has to be one of the most unique caves in the world. Right up there with the ATM cave in Belize. The royal pavilion is a gem inside a true gem of a natural setting. This sinkhole in the woods allows light and plant growth while giving the feeling of being underground. It’s magical.

I stayed one more night in Sam Roi Yot just to keep from traveling late in the day. Riding after dark raises my blood pressure. That evening I learned of another National Park that seemed close and was supposedly home to at least 300 wild elephants. I decided to stay another night and ride to Kui Buri National Park. Quick research informed me that there was no chance of seeing wildlife until dusk so I arrived at 3 p.m. and booked a tour.

Deep in the forest we pulled out and hiked. A lone elephant perhaps 3/4 of a mile away was the attraction. Not quite a herd and definitely not 300 head. We watched a while then boarded the truck to the next lookout. Here were gaur, a type of wild cattle. If you have ever sat and watched a field full of cattle, you get the idea. A few minutes of watching cows eat and I was out of there. The ride home after dark is why I need blood pressure medicine.

Rested and relaxed but aching in the feet for some reason, the next day I headed south along the coast. Prachauap Kiri Khun was next and I wanted to see a masseuse I had patronized on my earlier visit to the city.

I read a few years back that a Thai King decreed that all Thai citizens have a right to a massage. I have no idea if that’s true, but I like the idea. My kind of king. When farangs think of Asian massage happy endings immediately enter their sinful minds. Those do exist for sure, but if your goal is to find a legitimate deep tissue Thai massage you need not look far. That was what I needed and what the lady in Prachuap offered. I stayed overnight in Prachaup just to have a two-hour massage. That’s how good it was.

As I’ve said before, Prachuap is a funky town. Its seafood restaurants are fantastic. I availed myself of a crab curry, walked around a bit, and headed to bed. An early start was needed if I expected to get anywhere tomorrow. I’m five days into this ride and I’ve traveled three hours from Hua Hin.

I need to pick up the pace.

Please like, follow, and share.